Park Guide [National]: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Park Guide

National Parks

Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Tennessee, North Carolina

Park Resources:

• NPS: Great Smoky Mountains National Park
• National Park Foundation: Great Smoky Mountains National Park
• The ULTIMATE Smokies Guide to the National Park

My Visits:

• 2017-06: Clingmans Dome, Passport, and Elk at Great Smoky Mountains National Park
• Passport to Your National Parks
• Clingmans Dome
• Elk Siting!!
• 2017-03: Winter Wonderland Whitewater Wesser Weekend
• Snow and Road Closures
• 2016-07 [Coming Soon]
• Chimney Tops

Passport to Your National Parks Cancellations and Stamps:

Clingmans Dome, Passport, and Elk at Great Smoky Mountains National Park

Passport To Your National Parks
Base of the walk up to Clingmans Dome [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Smoky Mountains National Park

Clingmans Dome, New Passport, and Elk!

Summary:

I've been to Great Smoky Mountains National Park a few times already. Each time I try to do something different. Back in March, I attempted to visit Clingman's Dome; however snowy/icy conditions didn't let me get too far. I also decided to pick up the Passport To Your National Parks. Since I'm already working on Florida's State Parks, it would be fun to document all of the National Parks I go to as well!

The Gear:

• Passport To Your National Parks® Collector’s Edition

The Story:

Following my full day kayak lesson with the Nantahala Outdoor Center, I decided to venture Northeast towards Great Smoky Mountains National Park. I was determined to get to Clingmans Dome this weekend trip, and I had decided that I wanted to get my National Parks passport. Florida can't hog all of my park stamps fun.

Oconaluftee Visitor Center and the Passport

Passport To Your National Parks [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

It was getting close to 17:00, and I wasn't sure if that's when the visitor's center was going to close. Luckily I arrived about 10 minutes before, but they do not close until six actually. No rush. They had the standard passport in the shop as well as the Collector's Edition. I decided on the fancy Collector's Edition because it's larger and has so much more space for activities! I also got the 2017 set of stamps as well as the park's stamp. When I went to checkout, the cashier gave me the rundown. The stickers are stamps, and the stamps are called "cancellations". Also that this park is listed under Tennessee even though the majority of the park is in North Carolina.

This is the description of the Collector's Edition:

Passport To Your National Parks
Collector's Edition

"Beauty and practicality meet artfully in this deluxe version of the popular Passport, taking you above and beyond the original by providing space for Passport stickers and cancellation stamps for over 400 parks, as well as space for extra cancellations. The park sites are color-coded by region, each area featuring a color map that pinpoints park locations. With a spiral binding that makes it easy to lie open flat, a hard cover that ensures durability and longer life, and pages graced with beautiful color photographs, it’s the ultimate stamping ground." Source

The annual stamps are released (obviously) every year. I haven't decided yet if I want to go back and get the old stamps starting from 1986 (the inception of the program) or to just mark 2017 as my starting year. That's certainly a decision I don't have to make now, especially at $4.95/year. It's also good to note that the National Park Service uses the net proceeds of passport related purchases for educational and interpretive programs.

I was informed that I could also get a cancellation at Clingmans Dome, but that they also closed at 18:00 and that I would need to get on my way quickly since it would take 35-45 minutes to get there. I brought my passport over to the ranger on duty and got my Oconaluftee, NC visitor's center cancellation as well as the extra ones they had: Blue Ridge Parkway and Trail of Tears. 

Passport To Your National Parks Cancellations [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

I like how these stamps have the actual date on them compared to Florida's. At Clingmans Dome I got two more cancellations: Clingmans Dome as well as the Appalachian Trail. The hike up to the dome is part of the AT and is in fact the highest part of the AT. There were more exhibits at the Visitor Center, but I didn't get a chance to check them out due to my timeline.

Clingmans Dome

Panorama of Clingmans Dome [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

 [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

I made it to the parking lot at Clingmans Dome with just under ten minutes to spare. I ignore everything else just to find the visitor's center first. I got my cancellations for the dome as well as the Appalachian Trail! I then walk back to my car noting that it is quite cold, which should be expected at around 6,000ft of elevation. I added an extra layer on top and started making my way to the top!

Basically you feel like you are in and out of clouds at this height. The Smoky Mountains received their name due to the "smoky" fog that appears somewhat sporadically over the range of mountains. I like calling them wisps because it sounds more magical and enchanting. This is due to the volatile trees. Trees exhale chemicals such as water vapor and oxygen as well as other particles, which can transform into aerosols in the atmosphere. When light reflects off the particles, you can see the haze. The volatile organic compounds (VOCs) from the emitted chemicals contribute to Earth's atmosphere but are not as toxic as human produced VOCs. 

"Sorting out trees’ contribution to atmospheric haze was not easy, complicated by the fact that not all trees emit the same compounds. For instance, pine trees emit a class of chemical called terpenes—responsible for the trees’ sticky resin and pine scent. Terpenes are used to produce turpentine and furniture varnishes, as well as frankincense and myrrh. Deciduous trees emit isoprenes, a compound that is used to produce rubber. When emitted into the air and chemically transformed, these particles disperse as aerosols, which scientists can measure." Source

 [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

I won't go into too much detail as I am not a scientist, and while I will research more on my own, I don't want to share anything that is incorrect. Anywho, there are some informative signs on the trek into the sky. The following sign is about the Spruce-Fir Forest Community. The high elevation of the Smokies has a similar habitat to some Canadian forest communities. Since there is more rainfall, stronger winds, frequent clouds, and a drop in temperature of approximately 12 degrees Fahrenheit, trees and animals in the lower areas of the range would not survive.

Spruce-Fir Forest Community [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

The following two pictures are at the visitor center area. On the left is the trail to the dome, and on the right is the trail back to the large parking area.

Where the Appalachian Trail meets up with Clingmans Dome hike [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Hey look, made it to the top! There were a bunch of cyclists. It must have been a pain to get this high up, especially since I saw them riding down the 7 mile approach road as I was leaving. I don't think I would have been able to walk for a week after that climb.

Clingmans Dome [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

The clouds/fog/wisps are constantly moving. A cloud could cover the whole dome and not have a view, but in just a few minutes it can clear up. At least one direction usually had some visibility.

Clingmans Dome [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Clingmans Dome hike [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Last but not least is a picture of myself. I kind of match the sky.

Clingmans Dome [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Elk!

Elk are indeed present. [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

What are you looking at, punk? [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Okay so back in my March 2017 visit, I was kinda sorta making fun of the Elk Crossing sign across the street from the Oconaluftee Visitor Center. "How often does THAT happen?" Well...they aren't kidding. As I was leaving the park, thinking mostly about food, I was bewildered as the traffic was slowing. Then I saw people standing around and also pulling their cars into the visitor center parking lot (which is now closed). Turns out there was a gang of elk moseying along grazing on grass. The gang of elk was accompanied by what I now call the "stop sign elk ladies" who carry those Stop/Slow signs, try to get the elk to go a certain direction, and yell at tourists trying to get too close for their pictures.

Gang of Elk with 'Stop Sign Elk Lady #1' [Great Smoky Mountains National Park 2017-06]

Hurdles:

I wouldn't say there are any hurdles. Maybe some annoyances of cars driving really slow and a plethora of people. But I turn that into a positive of people driving safely and enjoying the scenery, and that people are going outside and exploring the world.

Relevant Quote:

"You’re off to Great Places! Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting, so…get on your way." - Dr. Seuss

Other:

I love the mountains, especially this park. It was part of my Road Trip Therapy journey in July 2016, which solidified my love of the mountains and North Carolina. This visit I picked up a  book at the visitor center gift shop called No Place for the Weary Kind: Women of the Smokies by Courtney Lix. It details nineteen women (and also the author) and their contributions to the Smokies, whether it be art, words, or establishment of the national park. I'm looking forward to this read. I love learning about badass women and their accomplishments.

Notable Resources:

• NPS: Great Smoky Mountains National Park
• NPS: Clingmans Dome
• NASA Earth Data: Volatile Trees
• 20 Inspirational Quotes to Stir Up Your Wanderlust for the Smoky Mountains
• The Mountain Lioness Park Guide to Great Smoky Mountains NP

Dagger Stratos Maiden Vorage

Dagger Stratos 14.5 S

Maiden Voyage

Summary:

I got a new yak!!!!! I have my agile whitewater boat but nothing great for the Florida rivers and coastlines. After extensive research and many YouTube videos, I decided on the Dagger Stratos 14.5 S. I slept on it, then ordered it the next morning. I was originally going to order through REI and pick-up at a store location when I am near one this weekend and next weekend, but I ended up finding a better deal with Appomattox River Company. It arrived at my house today, and even though the skies were ominous with a threat of thunderstorms, who would I be if I didn't go on my inaugural paddle the day it arrived.

The Gear:

• Dagger Stratos 14.5 S
• Werner Sherpa paddle

The Story:

In the future once I have more paddles and experience, I will write a better review, but this will just be pictures and initial thoughts. Conveniently it arrived this morning, and during my lunch break I finished up with all of the roof rack installation.

Kayak arrived from my home state!

It's like Christmas in summertime!

I did not realize it would come with a Manufacturer's Statement of Origin. How cool!

Manufacturer's Statement of Origin

I live just over five minutes away from Piney Z Lake, where there is a paddling trail. It's a large enough lake to not get bored quickly, but small enough it's impossible to get lost. There is a land bridge that separates it from Lake Lafayette, which is also part of the paddling trail. You must get out of your boat and carry it across to the other lake. I skipped Lafayette because it was already after 20:00, and it was slightly drizzling out with projected thunderstorms. I'll definitely do a more in depth post about this paddling trail in the future.

Arrival at Piney Z Lake

The lake was peaceful. At first I thought it was just me, my beer, and my Fig Newtons; however, there were two other paddlers at the back of the lake fishing. There were also two people on the fishing fingers as well. It was nice to know other people were present, but it still felt secluded and tranquil. 

Inaugural paddle toast!

Selfie

This is probably the fastest I've ever paddled a boat. It is long and slender, and likes to move in a straight line provided I'm actually paddling. As expected, turning is a b****. I've been spoiling myself with the Mamba in how easy that is to maneuver. But hey, different boats, different purposes. I can finally say I'm actually excited to go to the beach to test it out on the surf.

Paddling trail!

Cypress trees

More cypress trees

Returning home after the paddle

Just one more I promise!! (To include the Duc)

Selecting and Installing Yakima Corebars, Rooftop Bike Rack, and JayLow Kayak Carrier on a Toyota Tacoma Prerunner

Yakima Roof Rack Installation Process

2015 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Double Cab

Summary:

After the challenges last weekend of loading 2 kayaks and 2 mountain bikes into my truck bed to go to the Econfina River, I decided to research potential options for installing a roof rack on my truck. My truck already has existing raised siderails, so I just needed cross bars and the racks for a bike and kayak. This allows me to have more adventures and to not have to worry about having enough room.

Tacoma roof with factory raised siderails

The Gear:

• Yakima TimberLine Towers - Set of 4
• Yakima CoreBar
• Yakima FrontLoader Rooftop Bike Rack
• Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier

The Story:

The Search for Roof Racks

I applaud REI Co-Op for being very attentive to their Q & A on each product on their website. I actually just recently joined as a member and was able to use my member number for these purchases even though my card hasn't arrived in the mail yet. I've purchased from them before so I can't believe I never shelled out the twenty bucks for a lifetime membership. They also have very quick standard shipping too (order on Tuesday, arrive by Friday). Don't hold me to that though, I'm just speaking from my own personal experience.

I'm not the most handy person. I like to figure things out and try on my own when I can see a project being realistic. I learn most everything the hard way. Being spoonfed information only got me so far, but now my thirst for learning and trying new things keeps growing. I didn't even know what options I had and what exactly I would need. Searching kayak roof racks, kept just showing racks that magically got mounted. Of course installation is the key component of all this, and I discovered that I would need cross bars for anything I wanted to mount. I've seen people use pool noodles before, but I want something durable. I'm glad I bought the truck with factory installed raised siderails. Now they finally get put to use!

I began my search with REI in the kayak racks category. There all kinds of choices - hitch mounts, saddles, racks where the boat sits how it would on water, racks that would hold it at an angle to make more room, etc. It became clear quickly that Yakima and Thule are the best brands, at least for REI. Searching the internet revealed the same for quality. I also scoured Amazon which had a number amount of more affordable options in the $50 range for just the kayak rack, however after reading reviews, I realized I desired a folding option. That will add significantly to the price tag. I decided to put this part on hold as I needed to research cross bars first. Searching cross bars made me realize I would need something to keep them in place on the siderails. I guess this should be priority.

I will go in more depth for each item listed below. Pricing wise,  I went with buying 2 products from REI and 2 from Amazon Prime. Partly to do with REI had free shipping for some components but not others.

Closer view of Tacoma factory raised siderails

Yakima TimberLine Towers (REI: $199.00)

"This set of 4 versatile Yakima TimberLine towers quickly installs to your vehicle's raised side rails with easy-to-use attachment straps and the added cargo-carrying capacity of through crossbars."

Yakima TimberLine Towers - box

These towers were probably more frustrating than they needed to be. I had a difficult time with the rubber strap making a good fit. It comes with the necessary screwdriver. I read a review that mentioned keeping it in your car just in case. This sounds like good advice. The instructions could be difficult to understand at times but once I read through and understood the big picture, installation became much easier. Your crossbars package will have the extra pieces you need. Step 3 shows the differences between the types of bars.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Installation

At this point, be careful to make sure the holders are installed with the proper directions so that the larger round part of the loop will face forward, depending on the side it's on. Basically, if you face the towers all the same direction (see picture below to the left), attach two facing one way, and two the other. 

Yakima TimberLine Towers - The included screwdriver

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Da parts and pieces

Next, unscrew the remaining one on the back. This will take a lot of rotations, you will get bored. Now you can pull out the rubber strap, but don't pull it out all of the way as it's annoying to shove it back in (TWSS). It's imperative that it is out in order to screw the bar holders tightly during actual installation since that screw is on the bottom. See photo above on the right.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Ready for attachment!

Now onto attaching to the siderails. It was good to notice that the rubber straps wouldn't just slide under the rail. That ends a sense of security. I had to lift up the siderails in order to get the straps under. Also note that the larger side of the holder for the CoreBar is in the front. Aerodynamics y'all.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Placing along siderails

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Secured siderails

I'm debating if I could have done a better job with zipties as opposed to the rubber strap.... I agree with many reviewers that these don't seem like they should cost TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Placed approximately where they need to be

Yakima CoreBars 60" (Amazon: $109.33)

Yakima CoreBar Box - Cats for Scale

Not only is there a choice between Thule, Yakima, and any other brands; there is also a choice between the style of crossbars. Yakima has a nice comparison between the types, as they should. The aluminum JetStream is the most secure as the mounts are T-slots attachments. These are the most aerodynamic and lightweight, however this lowers the weight capacity to 165lb. They are also the most expensive. The CoreBar is roll-formed steel in a similar aerodynamic shape to the JetStream. They have a much higher carrying capacity at 220lb. There is slightly more noticeable wind noise when driving. The classic RoundBar has the same weight capacity as the CoreBar but is not an aerodynamic shape, therefore the wind noise can be loud.

Yakima CoreBar - Pre-Installation

I decided on the CoreBar. Why?

1. The aerodynamic teardrop shape is less noisy and can eliminate some of the drag. This could result in not as terrible gas mileage.
2. The core words to describe it are "Rugged / Aero" while the JetStream is "Sleek / Light / Aero". Rugged is more my speed.
3. Carrying capacity: same as RoundBar and higher than JetStream
4. Price: Significantly cheaper than JetStream, yet more expensive than the RoundBar.

Cool, CoreBar decided. Almost done. I need to choose a length. I want some overhang, but not too much as I'm not going to try and throw more than three things up there. 60" would be long enough.

Yakima CoreBar - First Tower

Now that I have my towers roughly in place, it was time to work my magic. I realized I tightened the slots for the bars to slide through all the way. I loosened them up and the bar slide right through. Since I still have to screw that in tightly, the mounts won't be secure, so it took some effort to make the overhang even on each side. They are definitely not even, but you would probably only notice if you were specifically observing for that reason.

Yakima CoreBar - Through Both Towers

I lifted up the towers to screw the bar holder to fit the crossbar snuggly and firmly. Now the tricky part - securing the rubber straps. If you pull too hard on the strap to get it to stretch around to latch on, you run the risk of pulling the strap out completely. It's annoying to shove the little buggers back in there. One of my towers decided to be a punk and not line up the strap's screwhole to the screw. It was way more frustrating than it needed to be to get it aligned. It was then difficult to get the straps tight enough to be secure on the siderails. I did the best I could. It ended up a little wobbly but nothing to be scared about.

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Tightening on siderails

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Attach last piece of towers

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Attach end caps to CoreBar

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - My truck is already looking way more badass

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Badass Truck, Different Angle

Yakima FrontLoader Rooftop Bike Rack (Amazon: $167.98)

Is this a bike rack or an assault rifle?

Now that I have the crossbars, I can now add the fun adventure racks! The bike rack is the easier install. When it arrived, I had to do a doubletake with the picture on the box sitting in front of my door. It eerily resembles an assault rifle.

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Anyway, selecting a bike mount wasn't too difficult. Since I was already decided on Yakima, that narrowed down the choices. There's the fork-mount rack, where you have to remove the front while. Then there is the upright like I ordered. It's $10-30 more expensive depending on where you order it, looks more secure, and I get to keep the front wheel on. The whole point of all this is to make more room elsewhere in the truck. I don't want to worry about a place for a wheel. Plus it has 35 reviews on REI, and roughly 4.5/5 stars. I ended up ordering from Amazon because REI has it listed at $189 and no free shipping, unless I pick it up at the store. I purchased for ~$20 cheaper on Amazon, and since it was Prime eligible, it arrived in two days with no shipping cost.

The installation was easy peasy and super secure. There are two easy-to-turn screws for each crossbar attachment. Easy as in flick it, and it spins about 10 turns around quickly. Simple to tighten. Adding this to my crossbars made my crossbars more secure, which is an added bonus. My small worry has disappeared.

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack
Folded Down

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier (REI: $179.00)

The kayak carrier is how I made the decision to go with Yakima. REI has several choices. The most popular design seems to be the racks where the boat can lean at your desired angle. If I had money to throw around wherever I wanted, this $650 badass Thule kayak carrier would have been awesome. After reading reviews on both REI and Amazon, I determined that I wanted the J-cradle folding option. That way I can keep the racks on my roof, and just keep them folded down when they aren't being useful. Folding also means more money, and no more cheap brands from Amazon.

I at first had the Thule Hull-a-Port Pro in my shopping cart. To be honest I never even clicked on the Yakima option because it's primary picture looks goofy with the straps in the front and back of the vehicle.

REI Kayak Racks - First three options

Advertising is everything. In general I like the look of the Yakama better, and it is $40 cheaper. I know for a fact that this will work with Yakima bars, and I really liked the package I would be getting with the CoreBar. 

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Box

The package comes with RoundBar adaptors. Do not get confused like I did and try to install them. The instructions tell you I guess. I didn't read. I also think they need to hire a new person to write these set-up instructions. A little more words could help. 

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - RoundBar Adaptors

Installation is super easy if you ignore those adaptors. There are two clamps that attach to the CoreBar, where you just spin the black screws until they are tight. Make sure they line up horizontally. My pictures immediately below do not show this, but the final pictures do. The red lever is how you fold the kayak and set the angle. First photo on left, the lever is in the closed position. Push it away from the rack in order to loosen it. Fold the holder down and push the lever back in. Ta-da!

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Folded Down

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Both attached, lined up the best I could

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - View from underneath

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier & Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Final Result and Driving

My first time driving was only with the towers, CoreBar, and bike rack. When going speeds of approximately 45MPH, I could hear the wind a little bit. Adding a kayak was the next challenge. 14.5 feet and about 50 pounds was surprisingly easier to load than I anticipated. Thank you truck bed for being an extra step up. Driving was super easy, and I didn't feel any drag, but I also never topped 40MPH.

Step 1 - Kayak in truck bed

Dagger Stratos 14.5 S on Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier

Oh by the way, I have a new kayak.....

Hurdles:

• Cost - this was not a cheap endeavor.
• Those rubber straps on the towers
• The research was time consuming (but well worth it!)

Relevant Quote:

"Instead of trying to make your life perfect, give yourself the freedom to make it an adventure, and go ever upward."
- Drew Houston

Other:

I am overall very happy with this purchase and installation. I don't think I would change anything if I could go back. The kayak stayed secure, and everything is so easy to use. I could put more stuff in the truck bed now and don't have to worry as much about coordinating with other people.

My truck looks (and is) way more badass now, and it's super geared up for even more adventures!

Notable Resources:

• Yakima Streamline System
• Yakima Crossbar Styles
• Rack N Road: JetStream v CoreBar
• Gear Junkie: Yakima Launches StreamLine System