Selecting and Installing Yakima Corebars, Rooftop Bike Rack, and JayLow Kayak Carrier on a Toyota Tacoma Prerunner

Yakima Roof Rack Installation Process

2015 Toyota Tacoma Prerunner Double Cab

Summary:

After the challenges last weekend of loading 2 kayaks and 2 mountain bikes into my truck bed to go to the Econfina River, I decided to research potential options for installing a roof rack on my truck. My truck already has existing raised siderails, so I just needed cross bars and the racks for a bike and kayak. This allows me to have more adventures and to not have to worry about having enough room.

Tacoma roof with factory raised siderails

The Gear:

• Yakima TimberLine Towers - Set of 4
• Yakima CoreBar
• Yakima FrontLoader Rooftop Bike Rack
• Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier

The Story:

The Search for Roof Racks

I applaud REI Co-Op for being very attentive to their Q & A on each product on their website. I actually just recently joined as a member and was able to use my member number for these purchases even though my card hasn't arrived in the mail yet. I've purchased from them before so I can't believe I never shelled out the twenty bucks for a lifetime membership. They also have very quick standard shipping too (order on Tuesday, arrive by Friday). Don't hold me to that though, I'm just speaking from my own personal experience.

I'm not the most handy person. I like to figure things out and try on my own when I can see a project being realistic. I learn most everything the hard way. Being spoonfed information only got me so far, but now my thirst for learning and trying new things keeps growing. I didn't even know what options I had and what exactly I would need. Searching kayak roof racks, kept just showing racks that magically got mounted. Of course installation is the key component of all this, and I discovered that I would need cross bars for anything I wanted to mount. I've seen people use pool noodles before, but I want something durable. I'm glad I bought the truck with factory installed raised siderails. Now they finally get put to use!

I began my search with REI in the kayak racks category. There all kinds of choices - hitch mounts, saddles, racks where the boat sits how it would on water, racks that would hold it at an angle to make more room, etc. It became clear quickly that Yakima and Thule are the best brands, at least for REI. Searching the internet revealed the same for quality. I also scoured Amazon which had a number amount of more affordable options in the $50 range for just the kayak rack, however after reading reviews, I realized I desired a folding option. That will add significantly to the price tag. I decided to put this part on hold as I needed to research cross bars first. Searching cross bars made me realize I would need something to keep them in place on the siderails. I guess this should be priority.

I will go in more depth for each item listed below. Pricing wise,  I went with buying 2 products from REI and 2 from Amazon Prime. Partly to do with REI had free shipping for some components but not others.

Closer view of Tacoma factory raised siderails

Yakima TimberLine Towers (REI: $199.00)

"This set of 4 versatile Yakima TimberLine towers quickly installs to your vehicle's raised side rails with easy-to-use attachment straps and the added cargo-carrying capacity of through crossbars."

Yakima TimberLine Towers - box

These towers were probably more frustrating than they needed to be. I had a difficult time with the rubber strap making a good fit. It comes with the necessary screwdriver. I read a review that mentioned keeping it in your car just in case. This sounds like good advice. The instructions could be difficult to understand at times but once I read through and understood the big picture, installation became much easier. Your crossbars package will have the extra pieces you need. Step 3 shows the differences between the types of bars.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Installation

At this point, be careful to make sure the holders are installed with the proper directions so that the larger round part of the loop will face forward, depending on the side it's on. Basically, if you face the towers all the same direction (see picture below to the left), attach two facing one way, and two the other. 

Yakima TimberLine Towers - The included screwdriver

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Da parts and pieces

Next, unscrew the remaining one on the back. This will take a lot of rotations, you will get bored. Now you can pull out the rubber strap, but don't pull it out all of the way as it's annoying to shove it back in (TWSS). It's imperative that it is out in order to screw the bar holders tightly during actual installation since that screw is on the bottom. See photo above on the right.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Ready for attachment!

Now onto attaching to the siderails. It was good to notice that the rubber straps wouldn't just slide under the rail. That ends a sense of security. I had to lift up the siderails in order to get the straps under. Also note that the larger side of the holder for the CoreBar is in the front. Aerodynamics y'all.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Placing along siderails

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Secured siderails

I'm debating if I could have done a better job with zipties as opposed to the rubber strap.... I agree with many reviewers that these don't seem like they should cost TWO HUNDRED DOLLARS.

Yakima TimberLine Towers - Placed approximately where they need to be

Yakima CoreBars 60" (Amazon: $109.33)

Yakima CoreBar Box - Cats for Scale

Not only is there a choice between Thule, Yakima, and any other brands; there is also a choice between the style of crossbars. Yakima has a nice comparison between the types, as they should. The aluminum JetStream is the most secure as the mounts are T-slots attachments. These are the most aerodynamic and lightweight, however this lowers the weight capacity to 165lb. They are also the most expensive. The CoreBar is roll-formed steel in a similar aerodynamic shape to the JetStream. They have a much higher carrying capacity at 220lb. There is slightly more noticeable wind noise when driving. The classic RoundBar has the same weight capacity as the CoreBar but is not an aerodynamic shape, therefore the wind noise can be loud.

Yakima CoreBar - Pre-Installation

I decided on the CoreBar. Why?

1. The aerodynamic teardrop shape is less noisy and can eliminate some of the drag. This could result in not as terrible gas mileage.
2. The core words to describe it are "Rugged / Aero" while the JetStream is "Sleek / Light / Aero". Rugged is more my speed.
3. Carrying capacity: same as RoundBar and higher than JetStream
4. Price: Significantly cheaper than JetStream, yet more expensive than the RoundBar.

Cool, CoreBar decided. Almost done. I need to choose a length. I want some overhang, but not too much as I'm not going to try and throw more than three things up there. 60" would be long enough.

Yakima CoreBar - First Tower

Now that I have my towers roughly in place, it was time to work my magic. I realized I tightened the slots for the bars to slide through all the way. I loosened them up and the bar slide right through. Since I still have to screw that in tightly, the mounts won't be secure, so it took some effort to make the overhang even on each side. They are definitely not even, but you would probably only notice if you were specifically observing for that reason.

Yakima CoreBar - Through Both Towers

I lifted up the towers to screw the bar holder to fit the crossbar snuggly and firmly. Now the tricky part - securing the rubber straps. If you pull too hard on the strap to get it to stretch around to latch on, you run the risk of pulling the strap out completely. It's annoying to shove the little buggers back in there. One of my towers decided to be a punk and not line up the strap's screwhole to the screw. It was way more frustrating than it needed to be to get it aligned. It was then difficult to get the straps tight enough to be secure on the siderails. I did the best I could. It ended up a little wobbly but nothing to be scared about.

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Tightening on siderails

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Attach last piece of towers

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Attach end caps to CoreBar

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - My truck is already looking way more badass

Yakima CoreBar and TimberLine Tower - Badass Truck, Different Angle

Yakima FrontLoader Rooftop Bike Rack (Amazon: $167.98)

Is this a bike rack or an assault rifle?

Now that I have the crossbars, I can now add the fun adventure racks! The bike rack is the easier install. When it arrived, I had to do a doubletake with the picture on the box sitting in front of my door. It eerily resembles an assault rifle.

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Anyway, selecting a bike mount wasn't too difficult. Since I was already decided on Yakima, that narrowed down the choices. There's the fork-mount rack, where you have to remove the front while. Then there is the upright like I ordered. It's $10-30 more expensive depending on where you order it, looks more secure, and I get to keep the front wheel on. The whole point of all this is to make more room elsewhere in the truck. I don't want to worry about a place for a wheel. Plus it has 35 reviews on REI, and roughly 4.5/5 stars. I ended up ordering from Amazon because REI has it listed at $189 and no free shipping, unless I pick it up at the store. I purchased for ~$20 cheaper on Amazon, and since it was Prime eligible, it arrived in two days with no shipping cost.

The installation was easy peasy and super secure. There are two easy-to-turn screws for each crossbar attachment. Easy as in flick it, and it spins about 10 turns around quickly. Simple to tighten. Adding this to my crossbars made my crossbars more secure, which is an added bonus. My small worry has disappeared.

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack
Folded Down

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier (REI: $179.00)

The kayak carrier is how I made the decision to go with Yakima. REI has several choices. The most popular design seems to be the racks where the boat can lean at your desired angle. If I had money to throw around wherever I wanted, this $650 badass Thule kayak carrier would have been awesome. After reading reviews on both REI and Amazon, I determined that I wanted the J-cradle folding option. That way I can keep the racks on my roof, and just keep them folded down when they aren't being useful. Folding also means more money, and no more cheap brands from Amazon.

I at first had the Thule Hull-a-Port Pro in my shopping cart. To be honest I never even clicked on the Yakima option because it's primary picture looks goofy with the straps in the front and back of the vehicle.

REI Kayak Racks - First three options

Advertising is everything. In general I like the look of the Yakama better, and it is $40 cheaper. I know for a fact that this will work with Yakima bars, and I really liked the package I would be getting with the CoreBar. 

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Box

The package comes with RoundBar adaptors. Do not get confused like I did and try to install them. The instructions tell you I guess. I didn't read. I also think they need to hire a new person to write these set-up instructions. A little more words could help. 

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - RoundBar Adaptors

Installation is super easy if you ignore those adaptors. There are two clamps that attach to the CoreBar, where you just spin the black screws until they are tight. Make sure they line up horizontally. My pictures immediately below do not show this, but the final pictures do. The red lever is how you fold the kayak and set the angle. First photo on left, the lever is in the closed position. Push it away from the rack in order to loosen it. Fold the holder down and push the lever back in. Ta-da!

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Folded Down

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - Both attached, lined up the best I could

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier - View from underneath

Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier & Yakima FrontLoader Bike Rack

Final Result and Driving

My first time driving was only with the towers, CoreBar, and bike rack. When going speeds of approximately 45MPH, I could hear the wind a little bit. Adding a kayak was the next challenge. 14.5 feet and about 50 pounds was surprisingly easier to load than I anticipated. Thank you truck bed for being an extra step up. Driving was super easy, and I didn't feel any drag, but I also never topped 40MPH.

Step 1 - Kayak in truck bed

Dagger Stratos 14.5 S on Yakima JayLow Kayak Carrier

Oh by the way, I have a new kayak.....

Hurdles:

• Cost - this was not a cheap endeavor.
• Those rubber straps on the towers
• The research was time consuming (but well worth it!)

Relevant Quote:

"Instead of trying to make your life perfect, give yourself the freedom to make it an adventure, and go ever upward."
- Drew Houston

Other:

I am overall very happy with this purchase and installation. I don't think I would change anything if I could go back. The kayak stayed secure, and everything is so easy to use. I could put more stuff in the truck bed now and don't have to worry as much about coordinating with other people.

My truck looks (and is) way more badass now, and it's super geared up for even more adventures!

Notable Resources:

• Yakima Streamline System
• Yakima Crossbar Styles
• Rack N Road: JetStream v CoreBar
• Gear Junkie: Yakima Launches StreamLine System